Our clickers are excellent experts who contribute in great degree to the preparation of nice and enduring shoes. They carefully check the quality of every single piece of leather, define the direction of stretch, then cut out the individual pieces of leather with steady hands, using a sharp knife. The clickers have to be familiar with the whole process of shoe manufacture and with the various properties of the different leathers available, since it is their responsibility to cut out punctual sizes of components from the top quality and expensive materials, with close attention.
The soul of hand-made shoes is the welt. Welted shoes are made by manually sewing first the welt, a 3mm by 18 mm leather stripe, the upper part (stretched on the last) and the insole together with perfect, even stitches. Then the welt is sewn also by hand to the simple or double sole, and finally the heel is also built to the shoe.
Reverse-welted shoes – also known as Goyser-sewn shoes – are produced by manually sewing the welt together with the upper part, then with the insole, and finally the sole is sewn together. In this case three rows of stitches is produced, giving the customer the impression of a more casual footwear, compared to the emphasized elegance of welted shoes.
On demand, we also manufacture bespoke shoes in our shop, where we also provide assistance in selecting the last that fits our customers’ feet. Although each model can be manufactured in any type of last, for the derby models we recommend the “Budapest”, the “3636” and the “banana” lasts, while we make the oxford models on the English-style “R” last. Other preferred lasts include the “Peter”, the “new Peter” and the “Italian” lasts, on which – depending on the height of instep on the customer’s feet – we make derby or oxford type shoes.
We have a wide variety of colours of calf leather: bordeaux, oxblood, cognac, 6319 cognac, red cognac, antique cognac, 6125 dark cognac, dark brown, black, blue, green, and four types scotchgrain leather (cognac, bordeaux, dark brown, black). We have the following variety of colours, from horsehide: antique cognac, bordeaux, dark brown and black. There is a selection of brown and dark brown coloured antelope leather. Please ask for availibility of our caiman and ostrich leather selection.